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Arm yourself to attack your acne

by NYCEsthy

Got acne? Wondering what the difference is between the top two topical acne  attackers on the market: benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid? Let’s break it down.

Benzoyl peroxide is a peeling agent, so it sheds the skin on the lesion from the top down. It also acts as an antimicrobial–as it works, it releases oxygen, which kills the bacteria that causes acne. It’s available over the counter in concentrations between 2 – 10%, and researchers have argued about the efficacy above the 2.5% level–critics say that it is not much more effective for a whole lot more irritation. BP is also a bleaching agent–darker skin tones will need to be careful and use the lowest concentration, as it can cause hypo-pigmentation. Irritating? Yes! There is often noticeable peeling with BP.

Salicylic acid is a betahydroxy acid. It’s oil soluble so it actually penetrates the pore and softens the keratin, loosening the impaction. It also breaks down black heads and white heads, and is often found in all over face washes, toners and moisturizers. It is much milder than BP, so it’s less irritating, but less aggressive as a topical treatment. SA cannot be used by people allergic to aspirin. SA is usually found in a 2% concentration over the counter.

While some skin care peeps say it’s OK to mix your acne topicals, I am old school and recommend you use one or the other. You could use an SA treatment during the day, since it’s gentler, and then BP overnight. But I would not layer them on together. And always always always wear sun protection (but I know you do, religiously).

In my personal battle with adult acne, I found an SA spot-treatment invaluable clearing it up. My acne was caused (in part) from my skin sensitivity. BP made my acne even more inflamed and angry, without clearing it up. The SA, since it’s gentler, did a much better job. However, it’s not easy to find spot treatments with SA. BP pretty much rules the spot treatment market. Murad has one (Murad Acne Spot Treatment) that, based on the ingredient list, looks really promising.

They worst thing you can put on your face? ProActive. Do not be tempted by their late night infomercials. No matter what Jessica Simpson or Lindsay Lohan are paid to say, the product line really screws up skin. I have had countless women and men on my treatment table trying to undo the ProActive damage.

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{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }

gingerrox February 8, 2010 at 3:31 pm

I have had great results with Origins’ Spot Remover (1% SA). Looks like the Murad is a bit cheaper – Origins’ is $10 or $11 for .3 oz. It lasts forever, though.

NYCEsthy February 8, 2010 at 10:44 pm

Thanks for the Origins tip! There are so few SA treatments out there, it’s nice to find other options!

Here’s why I like Murad-the inclusion of sulfur, which is a tremendous acne buster. It’s hard to find–it can smell funky, it can tint your skin while you use it, and some people are allergic. An old school acne treatment was sulfur soap, which is near impossible to find now! Plus the Murad has zinc, which is also a tremendous healing agent for acne.

That said, the Origins looks very nice, and I will add it on the “to try” list!

Mayo February 9, 2010 at 9:10 pm

Anything you put on your skin may cause problems, depending on what’s in it, so it’s important to look at the ingredients in ALL the products you use on your face, body and hair.

Research is showing a buildup of chemicals on the skin can cause acne, dryness (which leads to prematurely aging skin and makes acne worse) and skin cancer. Skin with rosacea is even more sensitive to these toxins.

With so many manufacturers using chemicals in their products, almost any product – cleansers, moisturizers, shampoos, conditioners, hair gels, sunscreens, etc. – can be causing breakouts on your face and body, or drying out your skin.

The ones advertised to clear acne can contain the most chemicals. Here’s a page that shows what’s in a Clearasil product and what those ingredients can do to skin !http://www.best-mens-skin-care.com/ingredients-in-a-clearasil-product.html

To find chemical-free products, read labels and research ingredients – or start with certified organic products which don’t contain harmful chemicals.

Mayo
http://www.best-mens-skin-care.com

NYCEsthy February 10, 2010 at 10:25 pm

Hi Mayo
Thanks for visiting and posting a comment. I agree that often product is the culprit for acne–one way people can tell is if they break out immediately after trying a new product. Another tell tale sign is acne around the hair line-usually that means that something in your shampoo or conditioner is causing the breakout. Since acne takes time to form, if you use something new and break out the next day, it’s most likely the product. However, true acne is always from clogged pores, and those suckers need to unclog!

I commend you for your use of organic products, but do caution that people can have reactions to organic as much as non organic (some will argue that organic causes more). I try to go green as long as there is a viable alternative, but I also see the value in non-organic products. Like everything else, balance is the key. There are certain chemicals I can live without, and make a point to try to; others are a little harder to escape.

I am curious about the research on chemical build up on skin as a cause of acne–could you site the study (or studies) that this came from? Because our skin is constantly shedding and regenerating, I am wondering how it would build up, unless it specifically cites clogged pores.

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