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Formulation Diaries: Marine actives

by NYCEsthy on February 15, 2010

Product formulation is hard. I spent most of the weekend trying out a new marine based active ingredient. And my results were mixed.

With the right formulation, marine based ingredients–seaweed, kelp and the like–are highly moisturizing. Seaweed interacts with protein to form a protective layer, which keeps water from evaporating from the skin. It is rich in trace minerals and has a high vitamin content, which means it’s packed full of great antioxidants. Because it’s high in iodine and sulfur amino acid content, which are antibacterial and anti-inflammatories, it’s great for acne prone complexions.

The formulation I came up with made my face feel unprotected. Not dry, but I prefer a thicker, richer cream on my skin during the winter. Maybe someone who likes a lighter formulation would be thrilled–maybe I would love it for the summer. It certainly softened my skin’s texture. But for a winter moisturizer, or  for someone with really dry skin, it didn’t cut it.

For the next attempt, I will use even less of the active. And I am also experimenting on creating a richer, more emollient cream than the one I am currently using for this experiment. Or, I was, until I over-heated my emulsifier mixer.

I also tried the active in my hair, and was very disappointed that it dried it out. This one has me kind of stumped and I am trying to figure out a way to counteract this. This active is supposed to a terrific nourishing agent for hair and the amount it dried it out is kind of astounding. I am considering either using less of the active, or adding an oil. I am still mulling this one over.

So the moisturizer, while not a complete fail, is still not where I want it. But the hair care formulation has a long way to go before it’s even ready to be sampled by anyone other than me. (Well, me or Manly Man Husband. But he declined this morning’s offer to try the hair formulation in the shower. I was hoping to see if it had the same effect on him, or if my effect was from my color treatments. But since he can see my hair, he refused to take one for the team.)

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