Jurlique's Age Defying Night Lotion contains licorice to fade discoloration
Manly Man Husband emailed me a link to a website that sent me into a rage. It was selling Obagi C-Clarifying Serum, and a quick google search showed that loads of internet retailers were doing the same.
What’s the big deal, right, it’s just a serum. The big deal is that it contains 4% hydroquinone, which is a prescription strength cosmetic ingredient. Seriously, my friends, you don’t want to play around with this stuff without consulting an MD.
The Skinny: What Is Hydroquinone?
Hydroquinone is a highly effective skin lightener. For those with the tell-tale signs of sun damage (dark spots), hydroquinone is certainly a miracle in a bottle. However, most OTC formulations with hydroquinone use 2%. To obtain a topical with 4% or above, you need to see a doctor.
What’s So Bad About It?
In scientific circles, there’s the usual argument about the safety of the ingredient. Some say it’s a proven carcinogen, others say that it’s never been proven to cause cancer. However, it does appear that long term use of hydroquinone causes cytotoxicity. Hydroquinone is banned in several countries, including the EU and Japan.
An Appeal to Vanity…
Health matters aside, let’s appeal to vanity. Misuse of hydroquinone can cause dermal pigmentation, and you so don’t want that.
Wait, let’s go back for a second and talk sun damage…
The usual, run-of-the-mill sun spot damage is generally epidermal hyperpigmentation, which is on the surface (dead) layer of the skin. Regular topical treatment with natural products (or yes even hydroquinone) inhibits the melanin production in that area.
Dermal pigmentation, on the other hand, is discoloration at the dermal level, the area of live skin. In addition to the discoloration, dermal pigmentation eats away at the collagen and elastin fibers. Dermal pigmentation is spectacularly difficult to treat. And studies have shown that extensive use of hydroquinone creates exactly this sort of damage.
Other options.
Personally, hydroquinone makes me very uncomfortable, particularly when there are other fantastic, completely safe yet effective ingredients to use, although the results may take longer to achieve. I have had fantastic results lightening sun spots with just regular AHA-based peels. For your everyday skin care products, look for ingredients like azelaic acid, kojic acid or licorice extract (found in Jurlique’s Purely Age-Defying Night Lotion
It’s important to note, once you stop using either any of the natural lighteners, or hydroquinone for that matter, the hyperpigmentation will return.
Why it doesn’t last forever…
These ingredients (hydroquinone included) are known as tyrosinase inhibitors. Tyrosinase is an enzyme that causes an oxidation reaction that, for example, turns fruits brown when exposed to air. In the skin, tyrosinase has the same effect. So these inhibitors block the oxidation process that leads your skin to create pigment. Once you remove them from your regime, the tyrosinase is free to oxidize it’s heart out, and generate pigment again.
Where would we be without a little SPF wrap up?
And sunblock? Very important when treating hyperpigmentation, particularly if you are using hydroquinone. But I don’t really need to remind you because I know you are wearing your it religiously, right? Right? Just in case, please wear your SPF. You can’t beat the hyperpigmentation without it.
