I so get the desire to de-goop. That little blackhead burrowed into your nose looks like it has taken over your entire face (but trust me, you are the only one who can really see it). That huge pimple on your chin is begging to be popped. Keeping your hands off your face? It’s. So. Hard.

The self-proclaimed Cosmetic’s Cop Paula Begoun has extraction advice for her readers posted over at her blog The Beauty Bunch. Paula doesn’t have much use for estheticians, and she believes that we all can DIY our pimple popping and blackhead squeezing.

And, hey, maybe we can! But her advice is wrong.

First, don’t use a comedone extractor. This is a tricky tool to master, and I have had extensive damage done to my skin by a trained esthetician using one of those suckers. You are way better off using the sides of your fingers (no nails, and fingers clean and wrapped in cotton or gauze pads, please!) or two Q-Tips.

With sufficient skin prep, blackheads often slip right out with the fingers and some light pressure. But skin prep is not, as Paula suggests, a little bit of a water based cleanser scrubbed with a washcloth around the area.

You need to soften the oil, which is done by using a highly alkaline solution left on the area for several minutes with steam applied. A face wash in tepid water means you will have to exert more pressure to pop those suckers out. That can lead to damage.

You need good magnification to see what you are doing and to follow the pore’s direction.

If you pop a pimple, make sure it is fully drained. If not, it will come back with a vengeance.

Never, ever EVER try to pop a pimple without a head on it. Period. Do not try to lance it to get the goop out. Leave it alone. You can scar (and I have the ice pick scars to prove it from my wandering teenage fingers).

When you are done, swab the area with witch hazel or tea tree oil. That stuff you just took out is bacteria, and without this step, it can spread all over your face.

Self-extracting is not something I recommend, but I am also realistic and know everyone gives it a go at least once in their lives.

Do you see an esthetician faithfully? For clients who see me regularly, I am happy to extract a pimple and give a quick high frequency between appointments if a pimple is making them crazy. Yours may very well have the same policy. It’s worth finding out.

I am extremely suspicious of Botox. I suffer from migraines. While I always say that I may be able to get insurance to cover injections for migraine control while smoothing out my worry lines, I probably will never do it. We all age, and I want to age gracefully. My peels and potions will help me do that. I don’t feel the need to inject toxins into my face.

Apparently, a Chicago plastic surgeon is treating acne with Botox injections. This report has been out for a bit, but I just caught on via this post from the really great blog over at Beauty Schools Directory (seriously, the blog is fab and not only for students looking for a cosmo school). He did a study, published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, that showed patients experienced a decrease in sebum production and a reduction in pore size. I do want to point out that this study was conducted on 20 patients, 17 of which said they saw improvement. I don’t know too much about the study, or how controlled it was, because I am too cheap to buy the article on line and can only read the abstract.

Anyway… Personal biases about Botox aside, my initial reaction is why try to inhibit sebum production? I really do think oil really draws the short straw when it comes to the acne conversation.

Acne is not caused by oil alone. In fact, the oil on properly functioning skin actually helps keep skin protected from environmental pollutants and also serves as a natural moisturizer. Further, the bacteria that cause acne is found not only on inflamed areas of the face, but also areas of unaffected skin. So what gives?

When the bacteria and oil get trapped under the surface of the skin (i.e. clogged pore), the bacteria is now deprived of oxygen. Without oxygen, the bacteria thrives, inflaming the surrounding tissue and essentially causing that zit (ok, there’s more too it than this, like rupturing under the dermis, etc, but let’s leave it here for the time being). So, while the bacteria is thriving in this particularly oily, anaerobic environment, it is NOT functioning in another area that is oily and exposed to air. Which is why we always talk about exfoliation.

I am seeing a teen acne client now, who has tried every acne product on the market. She came to me with the tightest, driest skin, riddled with inflamed red bumps. Extractions were so difficult to perform without out potentially damaging her skin, that I kept them to a minimum.  I put her on a new cleansing routine that eliminated all acne topical treatments for the time being.

When she came to see me after several weeks, she still had the acne, but her skin was not dry and tight and the acne had migrated towards the surface. She was not pimple free (nor did I expect her to be) but this time I was actually able to extract more of the existing acne and as well as some blackhead formations.

I know it’s killing her that it didn’t completely disappear, and I believe she will need to add in a BP or SA spot treatment eventually, but what I need to do first is get her skin back into balance before I add back in more aggressive acne treatments. The complete removal of the natural oil from the surface of her skin was causing the dead skin to trap the oil coming up through the pore, which was exacerbating the acne.

Essentially, healthy skin is balanced skin and when you start inhibiting your oil production you are throwing this balance completely out of whack, and quite likely exacerbating the problem.

As for the Botox… Without knowing the subjects involved in the study, I can’t really say. Perhaps they do have super oily skin that’s throwing their balance off, and the removal of the oil is necessary. But at 500 bucks a pop, there are certainly cheaper ways to treat acne. So I am not sold on this method.

Curious, would you Botox your acne away?

The New York Times is reporting that Washington is introducing a ban on antibiotics given to healthy cows, pigs and chickens (i.e. our food supply).  The farm lobby opposition could make the bill impassable, but at least it’s a start. I am not clear if these antibiotics encompass the hormones given to these animals (or if the antibiotics and hormones are one in the same).

If we could live in a synthetic hormone free food world, I would be very happy. I would also be curious to see if this impacts skin the severity and incidences of acne.  Here’s hoping an enterprising research scientist/MD does a study!

Remember how I told you about my deplorable face washing situation a few week ago? Well, I am now paying the piper and breaking out.

I picked up a bottle of Sonya Dakar’s Drying Potion during the beauty show in April. It’s a zip zapping remedy that Hollywood stars use to get red carpet ready. I am a sucker for Drew Barrymore, so when she was name-dropped by the sales rep, I had to pick it up. She suggested using only on the pimples that already came to a head–even better if it was applied post-extraction. It works.

Dab it on before going to sleep (it leaves your skin white, so you won’t want to head out of the house like this) and in the morning, the offending pimple is much MUCH smaller. Is it a magic elixir? Nope, but it does clear a breakout up much faster (in my case, 48 hours).

Here’s what I don’t like… First ingredient is SD Alcohol, which will dry your skin right out. Which is why I think this a good product to use in case of emergency. On an ongoing basis, I think skin would be best served with something milder.

I am half way through my 10 power plate sessions. This morning, my trainer said she thought I was getting stronger. But it is not something I noticed on a day-to-day basis, although the post-workout aches are definitely subsiding. Still, I am not completely sold on it.  

For the past five weeks, I have woken up with a headache the day after my power plate session. Since this supposedly stimulates the lymphatic system, which flushes toxins out of the body, I don’t think I am drinking enough water post-workout. I am either flushing but not replacing the water loss, thus getting dehydrated. Or the toxins are not getting sufficiently flushed.    

I also noticed that I have been having a ton more breakouts the past several weeks. It could be a coincidence, but I have been trying anything and everything to manage it and nothing in my extensive acne arsenal seems to be working. Since the skin is partly an organ of toxin excretion, I am beginning to think that maybe I am not drinking enough water to sufficiently detox, which is causing all sorts of havoc with my skin.   

I plan on consuming gallons of water today. Luckily, we stocked up on toilet paper over the weekend.

Oh Allure! Why do you break my heart? I always rip open the new issue when it arrives, anxious to read the “beauty bible” and am always so disappointed. The March issue came this morning, and the cover tag of “Stressed Out Skin?” pulled me in, only to hurt me within the very first paragraph.

In analyzing the skin of our over stressed masses, writer Sarah Van Boven says “Not only does stress cause our sebaceous glands to pump out more of the oil that bacteria thrive on…” Or, Oil = bad. 

Oil on our skin, for the most part, is a good thing. We need it to help kill the bacteria on our skin (oil=acid; bacteria cannot thrive in an acidic environment). However, there is one more piece to the acne puzzle. Oxygen. The problem is when the pore gets clogged by dead skin and dirt and oxygen cannot reach the bacteria to help kill it. Oil alone is not the sole culprit.

Strip away that oil and you will have to read the Sensitivity part of this article: “The epidermal barrier that locks moisture to the skin is the same thing that keeps irritants like pollution, allergens and chemicals out.” Guess what that epidermal barrier is? The one you just stripped away because of your acne.

I suppose I should learn by now not to get so excited when the damn magazine shows up.  But it’s kind of like porn. Excited by the promise yet ultimately deflated by the actual experience.

You’ve tried all the acne products in the world, and nothing
cures the angry eruptions.  Here
are three low-cost bacteria busters to incorporate into your routine. Do this
religiously for about a month—they will make a difference.

• Give the bathroom towel a break from your face. Keep a roll
  of paper towels   handy and
  use them to blot your wet face. 
  Using the same towel over and over again spreads bacteria back onto your
  freshly washed face. 
• Change your pillowcase nightly, or cover your pillow with
  clean paper towels before you go to sleep. While you are sleeping, bacteria
  from your face rubs off on your pillowcase, causing acne to spread to other
  areas.
• Use disposable cotton balls to apply your makeup.  OK, this one may cost a few bucks
  because you will need to replace your old makeup. When you apply makeup to your
  face, and then dip the same applicator back into the makeup, you are also
  applying acne bacteria back into the product, which then gets spread onto your
  face the next time you use it. Use a clean cotton ball to apply makeup and do
  not double dip.  Get new cotton if
  you need to apply more pigment. 

A new post over at the Lucky Magazine Beauty Blog caught my
eye. Apparently, an editor over there is having great luck with a skin care
regime that, she says, completely cleared up her acne.  On first glance, it looked ok.  I felt like she was over-exfoliating a
bit, between a mechanical method (i.e. a scrub) at night and a chemical method
(peeling agent) in the morning. But to each her own, some skin can handle a
little roughing up.  Mine,
personally, cannot.

But then I caught her caution that one of the products she
uses has a tendency to “eat your face off.”  TheSkinReport is not a fan of face eating products!

She was referencing Clinique Emergency Gel Lotion.  In my opinion, Clinique products have
always tended towards the mild, so I was a little shocked by her caution. Why
was this product eating her face? 
I investigated her product choices.

It appears that her combination of Glycolix (a product that
contains a 5% glycolic peeling agent mixed with 2% salicylic acid) with the
Clinique Emergency Gel Lotion (with an active ingredient of 5% benzoyl
peroxide) is most likely the face-eating culprit.

In school, we were taught never EVER to mix salicylic acid
and benzoyl peroxide—it is simply way too irritating for the skin to take both
exfoliants at the same time. In terms of using SA or BP, it is really a
personal choice and what works best for you.

Generally speaking, if your acne tends to be more pussy in
nature, the SA is a great choice since it will go after the oil. If it is a
question of pimples that never really become pussy (like whiteheads or pimples
that never create a “head”), you are probably better off using BP. You can also
use one product in the morning and another at night—you just cannot use them
right on top of each other.  For
example, this editor could simply move her application of the Clinique
Emergency Gel Lotion to her evening routine.  This would cut down significantly on any face eating that’s
going on.

As much as it seems fun and frivolous, beauty writing is not
easy—there are always so many new products and ingredients flooding the market
and you are writing for hundreds or thousands of different skin types. So if
you are reading advice (hell, even MY advice) always follow it with
caution.  And if you see a product
recommendation followed by a warning that it will “eat your face off,” you may
want to look elsewhere for skincare opinions.

Fate works in mysterious ways.  Just after this item posted, I found out my husband’s cat
has to get his leg amputated.  We
can barely afford the limb removal (thanks, Visa, you are everywhere I need to
be!) so I don’t think we will be stem-celling the kitty.

At some point late Monday afternoon, the dog went on a
rampage and went after the poor cat. The culprit was Elvis, not Mercy.  As I mentioned before, she’s simply too
lazy to go on any sort of rampage.

I don’t entirely understand why this happens, since the cat
and dog can be in the same room together, sniff each other and basically hang
out with out a problem.  But
sometimes when the cat feels like Elvis has him cornered, the fight-or-flight
instinct gets stuck on flight and the cat decides to run.  Elvis is part greyhound so when he sees
a small furry thing run, he gives chase. 
This time, he caught hold and did some serious damage—an exposed
fracture, which is at serious risk for infection, which leads us to the
amputation.

So, fight-or-flight responses are not the best reactions in
certain situations, for kitties and humans alike.  They certainly cannot be avoided in threatening situations,
but the panic that sets in during any time of stress (a really high pressure
job, for example) creates total havoc on your nervous system. When the response
is triggered, it basically shuts your body down with the exception your
hormones.  So hormone levels spike
(an acne culprit) while your immune system (a bacteria and acne fighter) slows
to a crawl, leading to stress induced acne (not to mention some potentially
serious health problems).  So
taking a few minutes to decompress will save your skin and enhance the quality
of your life.

Unfortunately, a hot bath does not work as a stress remedy
for me.  Once in the tub, I start
thinking, hmm, maybe I should shave my legs, or check out this new soap, or
maybe I should mask my hair while I all wet, all of which kind of defeats the
purpose.

So I have a bottle of Clary Sage essential oil on my desk,
which I sniff when I get that out-of-my-mind feeling. Clary Sage cuts down on anxiety and
helps the mind relax. If it has been a prolonged stressful day, I’ll add a few
drops to an essential oil diffuser and let it run as I fall asleep.  I also found the oil to be particularly
useful during some raging bouts of PMS—the soothing scent of the sage saved my
husband from having any of his appendages amputated.

After over two months of studying anatomy, chemistry, cosmetic chemistry and skin disorders, I am finally into my practical program at school. Which means less homework! Now I can (hopefully) keep up with the blogging.

Since I am finally back after a hiatus, I thought it would be apropos to discuss… Backs! Specifically back breakouts.

Back acne literally sneaks up behind you. Since we are usually blissfully ignorant of our rear view, it’s an area that tends to get neglected. Until you start digging out the summer tank tops and camis and realize that you have an acne explosion. A few weeks ago, I noticed that my upper back was covered with those nasty little eruptions.

Back breakouts are most likely a combination of two things: lack of exfoliation and cleanser—either in the form of soap or shampoo run off—reacting with the skin.

Armed with an exfoliating bath towel from the Asian supermarket (and for 2 bucks, those things rock!) and my daughter’s California Baby Shampoo and Body Wash, I faithfully scrubbed my back after I was done washing and conditioning my hair.

Now if shampoo was the culprit, why use more shampoo on the affected area? Because baby shampoo is formulated for “no more tears,” which means that its pH is as close to neutral as possible to keep from burning the eyes. Shampoos, soaps and cleansers are detergents (with a more alkaline pH), which strip away the skin’s natural oil in addition to the dirt and grime. If we over strip the oil from our skin, acne can form.

Within a week, the acne began to dry out. By the end of week two, the acne explosion was finally under control.